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Mac GeekeryGet your geek on. |
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Mac GeekeryGet your geek on. |
HardwareBackgroundThe introduction of the MagSafe connector for MacBooks and MacBook Pros was NOT good news for users of iGo or Kensington airline/car/boat power supplies. Neither manufacturer has yet come out with a MagSafe tip, for reasons probably related to Apple’s patent. This hint describes a simple method of using an iGo power supply with a MacBook. Some simple soldering is required, and following these instructions will obviously invalidate your warranty for both the power supply and your MacBook. The author takes no responsibility whatsoever for any damage caused! If you already have an iGo (mine came with tip 4 included), this hint will set you back £2.08. The principle is very simple: Insert an in-line plug and socket into the cable of the original Mac power supply.There's more » I needed to change many iBooks from having a Preferred Network (and wanting to keep looking for that network) to automatically joining any open network and not giving a preference to that certain network. I found that the two preference files involved were:
I also found that the computer name is kept in preferences.plist, so copying these two files out to all the iBooks would have resulted in a same-name-game fiasco. Soooo, my solution was to:
This command will search through the Hello. I have this 12” G4 iBook and the trackpad button is broken. Specifically it appears to be stuck on “click”. I looked at what it takes to replace and it seems I’d need to replace the entire upper-case of the iBook. As a compromise I’m prepared to plug in and use an external USB mouse and use the option to ignore trackpad when external mouse is present. But here’s my problem – I can’t use an external mouse yet because that also can’t click because the trackpad click won’t ever finish and unregister and allow another device a click. So if I could set the Keyboard & Mouse Trackpad option ‘Ignore trackpad when mouse is present’ using the terminal (which I can launch using Spotlight) this iBook would become a useable system again. (In case you’re wondering I’m typing this from my MacBook and the iBook belongs to my son who recently broke the trackpad clicker during a bout of computer rage. I haven’t quite worked out what drove him so mad, OS X is usually so serene!) Hi, I have a MacBook and after pushing some buttons in windows, i rotated the screen by accident. Is there a possibility to do that in Mac OS X on purpose? Is there a possible way to stop the pulsating “sleep” light on a powerbook, via AppleScript or some other way? Aside from Shutting the computer off, of course. Hi guys I’ve googled and found little help so far… if a password is required to wake from sleep/screensaver, is it possible to wake a mac from sleep (at say 0200) in order to run a backup script ? what’s happening at the moment is that the computer wakes, the script starts to run, but then after about 1 minute, because the authentication dialog is not processed, it goes back to sleep, so interrupting the script i had the same problem trying to sftp into a mac after using wake-on-lan to wake it from sleep remotely. i can successfully make the sftp connection and start file transfers, however it quickly goes back to sleep (as the authentication dialog is unanswered) so is there a way to keep the security of require-password-from-sleep, as well as allowing useful things like running scheduled backup scripts ? thanks Hello, I work for a large-ish art gallery, i am having trouble figuring out how to get a UPS to shut down our xserve when the power goes out (thanks heatwave!) i can’t find a “smart” UPS which is mac compatible, as they all require a serial connection and proprietary software ie APC’s offerings. I have kind of a solution and it involves using a serial to usb converter attached to a relay on the outlet, but what what command should i get the serial signal to run to shut the machine down? Thankyou! MY intel iMac monitor goes dim after 30 seconds of unuse – I’ve checked energy saver and its set to sleep at after a long wait How can I adjust this dimmer? Thanks Interference. It’s the biggest problem these days with wireless ethernet and it will kill the speed of your connection. A 54Mb connection is capable of 6.9MB/s at 100% performance. You won’t see 100% performance. You’ll be lucky to see 90% (6.2MB/s). But after cleaning up much of the interference with my base stations, I did see 56% of maximum two rooms over. The first thing you need to do is see if anyone is interfering with your signal. Now I could sit here and discuss signal/noise ratios and power settings, or I can give you a pretty chart. I’m guessing you want the pretty chart.
As you can see, channel six is overrun with base stations on their default channel. I had Callisto up on channel 10 for a while, but that austin3 network showed up one day and absolutely killed my network’s performance. For a while, I blamed it on my MacBook Pro as I’d previously had an iBook G4, the superstar of reception. But then I tested the new iStumbler and saw that there were a few networks up there and absolutely no one at the low end. So, I changed the settings on my base station to be at channel 3. The results were astounding. I went from this:
To this:
Really.There's more » What with all the hubbub about the thermal paste application on the MacBook Pro, I figured I’d throw my officially-trained, Apple-Certified bits into the mix. We have two MacBook Pros in the Geekery Compound, and we’re a little tired of roasting chestnuts, if you know what I mean… There’s been conflicting reports as to whether reapplying the paste really makes much difference, but no one’s really done a bang-up, knock-down, scientific experiment on the issue. Well, that’s about to change. Read on for our results. We have included the raw measurements for those interested in which areas were what temperature. For each reading there is a high, low, and last recorded. These were averaged together for the final numbers.There's more »  |
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